– LSA is defined as spread in camshaft degrees between the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline.
– Overlap is the number of crankshaft degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open as the cylinder transitions through the end of the exhaust stroke and into the intake stroke
– LSA is ground into the cam and cannot be changed without grinding a new cam
– Bigger duration cams will have more overlap then a smaller duration cam even if both are on the same LSA.
– The key to making overlap work is maximizing the power in the rpm band where you want it.
– Long overlap periods work best for high-rpm power. For the street, a long overlap period combined with long-duration profiles combine to kill low-speed torque
– Reducing overlap on a long-duration cam will often increase midrange torque at the expense of peak power, but if the average torque improves, that’s probably a change worth making.
– Many enthusiasts purchase a camshaft strictly on the basis of how it sounds. A cam with generous overlap creates that distinctive choppy idle that just sounds cool.
– You’ll find that a 112 or 114 LSA with a 108 and 110 ICL respectively is the best all around street setup.
– While doing my research on the T1 I cam across this dyno in which if I recall Tony (Nineball) stated that the blue graph was a T1 (112 lsa) and the other 2 where a B1 (114) lsa. 112 vs. 114
– What really affects where the cam makes the most power is the intake timing events. What affects drivability most is the exhaust-closing event.
D. Advance and Retard:
– When you see cams specs like 224/224 .563/.563 112+4; the +4 denotes that the cam has 4 degrees of advance ground in.
– Most off the shelf cams have 2 or 4 degrees of advance ground in. This lowers the power band slightly and offers more low end and midrange at the sacrifice of a bit more top end power
– For cams used primarily on the street the advance is best appreciated. For a strip or racing setup 2 or 0 degrees advance will net you more peak power in the upper ranges of the power band
– To find out if you cam has advance ground in you can check on the cam card. Besides the +2, +4, you can determine the number by looking at the intake center line (ICL). Referring back to the B1 cam card you’ll see that it states that those are the specs when installed on a 108 ICL.
– Subtracting the ICL from the LSA will give you the advance: 112 – 108 = 4 using the B1. Or 113 – 109 = 4 using the G5X2.
– Retarding the cam does the opposite of advancing it, it pushes the power band up slightly and gives more top end power.
– With an adjustable timing chain or degreeing the cam you can install the cam at different ICL’s.
– Keep in mind as stated; most cams already have advance ground into them so if you buy an adjustable timing chain and advance 2 degrees you’ll increase the overall advance to 6 degree’s if the cam has 4 degree’s ground in.
– Also with big cams and/or milled heads piston to valve clearances starts becoming an issue. If in doubt always clay the heads and find out your PtV clearance before installing/advancing especially if your cam has a big intake duration as advancing starts the intake valve events sooner.
– Installing dot to dot or degreeing at the said ICL is the best bet.
II. Which cam is right for you
– The key to cam selection is to be brutally truthful when it comes to how you intend to use the engine in question.
– Don’t succumb to the temptation to put the biggest cam you can find into your daily driver.
– If you want to be a lazy fuck and not do your own research to find the cam that best suits your application you can just pick up a tr224 114 cam which is the quintessential all around great daily driver cam.
– Pretty much any 220 to 230 duration, .550 to .590, 112 or 114 cam is considered relatively small and great for a daily driver application with the right tune.
– A few of the more popular and latest and greatest cams in no particular order:
TR224 .563/.563 112 +4
TR 224 .561/.561 114+4
Comps 224 .581/.581 112
TSP 231/237 .598/.595 112 (unsure of advance)
G5X2 232/240 .595/.609 112 or 114+4
G5X3: specs unreleased but bigger then the X2
TR Trex 242/248 .608/.612 110+2
FMS FM4 226/226 .575/.575 112 or 114
FMS FM 10 228/228 .581/.581 112 or 114
FMS FM 13 230/232 .591/.585 112 or 114
02+ LS6 cam 204/218 .551/.547 117.5
LPE GT2-3 207/220 .578/.581 118.5
GM HotCam 219/228 .525/.525 112
TSP 225/225 .589/.589 112
TSP 233/ 233 .595/.595 112
II. Valvetrain
A. Springs
– For any cam swap you MUST change out valve springs. The stock springs are only good enough for the stock cam and barely at that.
– As far as springs go you have a few but not limited to the following choices:
1. Comp 918’s: A few years back they had some problems with non-blue stripe springs breaking but they have seemed to rectified the problem. The beehive design is also a superior setup. Your stock steel retainers can be reused with the 918’s but titanium retainers are recommended for lightening up the valvetrain and for strength.
Outside Diameter (O.D.): 1.290″/1.060″
Inside Diameter (I.D.): .885″/.656″
Installed Pressure: 130 lbs @ 1.800″
Open Pressure: 318 lbs @ 1.200′’
Coil Bind: 1.085″
Maximum Lift: 0.625″
Rate (lbs/in): 313 lbs/in
2. Manley Nextek: Also a single spring like the 918’s but not of the beehive variety. They are a good spring and come in a package deal from SDPC for 178 and that includes titanium retainers. The springs are rated for up to .600 lift.
Max Valve Lift : .600″
O.D. : 1.255″
I.D. : .830
Installed Pressure : 115@1.750″
Open Pressure : 350@1.175″
Coil Bind : 1.100″
3. Crane Duals: A dual spring setup rated for up to .650 lift. When buying duals you’ll need the dual springs (obviously), titanium retainers, new dual spring seats, and new valve stem seals.
The installed seat pressure is 112 lbs @ 1.800′’ with a maximum recommended lift of .650′’ at the valve with an accompanying open pressure of 352 lbs. The 1.275′’ O.D.
112lbs @ 1.800
352lbs @ 1.150
will handle .650 lift with .045 coil clearance
*INFO REGARDING CRANE SPRING REVISION*
4. Comp 921’s: Also a dual spring like the Cranes above and come as a kit with everything you need for installation, rated for up to .650 lift
O.D: 1.300
I.D: .870 (outer spring)
I.D: .655 (inner spring)
135 LBS @ 1.770
400 LBS @ 1.220
COIL BIND @ 1.040
MAX LIFT .650
5. Patriot Gold Duals: See Crane and 921’s. The PP Golds are currently the best direct drop in spring, they are the stand set for the new AFR heads and come on all PP heads. PP are the only genIII spring setup to use the super 7 locks.
O.D 1.29
135lbs @ 1.800
385lbs open
coil bind @ 1.08
.650 lift
My Personal Indepedently tested PP golds:
seat: 143 lbs @ 1.800
open: 363 @ 1.200
coil bind: 1.060
Clearance: .140
spring rate: 367
6. PRC Dual Spring Kit: Kit comes with Dual springs, tit. retainers (using stock locks), seats, valve stem seals. good for up to .660 lift
seat : 140lbs
open: 390lbs
install : 1.800
coil bind: 1.07
1.290 O.D.
max lift : .660
matl : super pure chrome silicone
Comp 977’s: dual spring (requires machining of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.46
I.D: .700
seat pressure: 155 @ 1.850
open presure: 419 @ 1.250
coil bind: 1.195
spring rate: 441
Comp 978’s: Dual springs (requires machining of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.46
I.D: .697
seat pressure: 126 @ 1.850
open presure: 368 @ 1.250
coil bind: 1.195
spring rate: 403
Comp 987’s: Dual Springs (require maching of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.430
I.D: .697
seat pressure: 121 @ 1.800
open presure: 388 @ 1.200
coil bind: 1.150
spring rate: 344
B. Pushrods
What they are: http://www.ls2.com/boggs/cam/cranepr.gif
What they do: transfer the motion of the cam to the rockers
What to look for:
– New pushrods aren’t absolutely necessary but they are highly recommended.
– The pushrod was never designed to be a fusible link in the valvetrain. Several years ago we even had a member (might have been in the old LS1.com days) that was an engineer from Jesel (don’t recall his ID) and he was adamantly opposed to the notion that the LS1 pushrods were designed to break in the event of a mechanical over-rev. The job of the pushrod is to accurately transmit the motion of the cam lobe (via the rocker arm) to the valve. If it’s flexing under load, then its simply not doing its job.
Look at it this way; you CAN mechanically over-rev any engine – pushrod, OHC, rotary, or otherwise – and cause damage. There is nothing unique or special about the LS1 pushrods making them fusible.
This is like saying that you broke your ring gear on a missed shift so therefore everybody should continue using the weak 10-bolt rear ends. Just a silly, backwards argument IMO – especially when you’re considered an aggressive cam with heavier valve springs (Fulton 1)
C. Rockers
What they are: HS 1 HS 2 Comp Magnums Comps Crane SLP 1.85
What they do: transfer the cam motion along from the pushrods and accentuate the valves to open
What to look for:
– New rockers are also an optional choice during a cam install.
– The stock roller tip rockers have been known to loose there bearings but it’s not an overly common occurrence.
– With companies like Harland Sharp coming out with affordable high quality roller rockers it makes the choice to upgrade that much easier
– Yellow Terra’s (YT) are also a relatively economical choice for roller rockers
– Adjustable rockers allow you to adjust lifter pre-load
– Higher ratio rockers can be used to increase lift (see cam lift for more info). Along with increasing the valve lift adding higher ratio rockers also nets you an extra degree or two of duration and increased overlap.
D. Others
– It’s a good idea to install a new timing chain as well. The stock ones are notorious for having a lot of slack in them
– You can either get a single or double
– The double chains come with the needed spacers to clear the oil pump
– 98-00 cars should also factor in a new oil pump
– A new chain and oil pump should run you about 200 dollars